Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
